My first thought when I got off the train in 奈良 was surprise at how urban it seemed. "Ancient capital" doesn't exactly suggest family restaurants and coffee shops! However, a 10 minute walk takes you into 奈良公園 (ならこうえん - Nara Kouen - Nara Park) - an endless park with signs pointing out temples in every direction. This park is also the home of throngs of 鹿 (しか - shika - deer) who watch people walking past with varying interest.
The 鹿 wander around, uncaged and unfenced, to socialise with people or not as they see fit. Little stalls dot the walking trails selling 鹿せんべい (shika senbei - "deer crackers") which will either see you surrounded or completely ignored depending how hungry they are. They're definitely in charge though - one 鹿, for example, stubbornly walked straight past all the people with せんべい and helped himself to a lady's picnic lunch.
Occasional naughtiness aside, they're absolutely tame and wander around the park being patted on the head, posing for photos with mouths full of せんべい and meandering across roads where the cars patiently stop for them. They stand in the river, wander into temple grounds and are generally waited on hand and foot by the adoring tourists and locals.
The 鹿 are considered messengers of the gods in 神道 (しんとう - Shinto) religion. As you may be able to see from the pictures, the males' horns are kept cut short. Apparently they are ritualistically sawn off every year by a 神道 priest as part of an "antler cutting ceremony" during the mating season in 秋 (あき - aki - Autumn). I was a bit shocked at this, but I'm told that horns are just like fingernails, so it doesn't cause them any pain or distress. They don't much like being caught, but it's done quickly and they're immediately released afterwards. It's done for a good reason as well - the 鹿 get quite aggressive during 秋 and this stops them from hurting one another and people in the park.
Following the crowds, the 鹿 and the lines of 桜, we visited 東大寺 (とうだいじ - Todaiji temple). This features the 大仏 (だいぶつ - daibutsu - big Buddha) - a giant (about 15m tall) statue, housed in the world's largest wooden building. I hope the pictures give you an idea of scale (and how nice the 桜 were).
Walking around the back of the 大仏, there was a huge wooden pillar with a small hole running through it (which is apparently the same size as one of the nostrils of the 大仏). If you're able to squeeze though it, you can expect to live a long life. The line of parents waiting for a chance to poke their children through was amazing, but I don't think I would have had much luck if I had tried. Long life or not, I still managed to appreciate the gorgeous 桜 on the way out.
奈良 is beautiful at any time of year, in any of Japan's 四つの季節. It's also close enough to do in a day trip - one of 兵庫 (Hyogo) Prefecture's close neighbours. That only leaves time for the really obvious stuff though - if you want to really delve deeper into the ancient capital, you'll need a little longer than that. Fit through the pillar and you should have all the time you need.
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